Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
